Lawns |
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1. No hurry to begin spring careWait for turfgrass to become active for most care practicesAllow turfgrass to come out of dormancy and begin growth, and soil temperatures to warm, before starting most lawn care practices. From scheduling mowing and irrigation to controlling white grubs, refer to Management Calendar for Cool-Season Lawns, Nebraska Extension. |
2. MowingBegin once grass is growing and tall enough to need mowingMowing is not needed prior to turfgrass greening up and starting to grow. The first mowing should take place when green grass is tall enough to require mowing. Mow at 2.5” to 3.5” for the entire growing season, returning clippings to the lawn. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the total canopy height at one time. Mowing at the shorter end of the recommended range will require more frequent mowing than mowing at the higher end. Mowing too infrequently – called scalping – accelerates growth rate, reduces quality and canopy density, and encourages weed invasion. |
3. WateringOkay if warm and dry but not needed until turf green and growingWatering is fine if conditions remain dry, warm and windy; however, until turfgrass is actively growing, watering may not be needed. As we begin the season, a reminder that more lawn problems arise from over-watering than under-watering. Lawns should be watered deeply with 0.5 to 1.0” of water (depending on soil type) only when wilt is observed. Common symptoms of minor drought include light blue-green color and lingering footprints. Automatic irrigation systems should be closely monitored, and be equipped with either a rainout or soil-moisture sensor to prevent irrigation when there is sufficient soil moisture. |
4. FertilizingMight be okay to apply earlier this year with above average temps, but no rush; growth rate and greenness of turf should guide applicationsFertilizing should begin after growth begins. Once the spring growth surge begins to slow and turfgrass color is off is the time to begin fertilization. With above average temperatures this year, beginning fertilization in April instead of May may be needed this year. Fertilizer containing 50% each quick and slow release nitrogen sources are good choices. |
5. CultivationBegin once turfgrass growth is active; April is okay but fall is idealCultivation (power raking and core aeration) is best avoided until turf resumes active growth. It needs to be done prior to applying preemergence herbicides for crabgrass. Lawn aeration or thatch removal (dethatching) is permissible if soil compaction exists or thatch is greater than ¾” in depth. Cultivating through a preemergence herbicide barrier may reduce efficacy. This practice is preferred in the fall, but April is okay if soils are not too wet. |
6. Weed ControlToo late for preemergence control of knotweed; too early for crabgrassPreemergence weed control of knotweed and crabgrass - Prostrate knotweed is a summer annual weed; however, its seed breaks cold dormancy and germinates much earlier than other summer annual weeds. Germination begins with soil temperatures of 35 to 50 degrees F., stopping when soil temperatures reach 50 degrees F. During most years in Nebraska, germination likely begins between late February and early March. It is now too late to control knotweed with PRE products. Postemergence products containing Dicamba or triclopyr can be effective. Crabgrass, also a summer annual, begins germination when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F. at two to four inch depth. This typically does not occur until May in Nebraska making late April into early May the treatment window for PRE products. |
Trees & Shrubs |
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7. Early BuddingIf frost occurs, blooming may be reduced or leafing delayedEarly budding of shade trees and shrubs is common with above average winter and spring temperatures. Swelling of buds, or actual opening of buds, increases the risk of low temperature injury to tree and buds. This creates concern and raises questions. Most temperate zone plants survive this well. If the buds are flower buds, the only loss for shade trees and shrubs is the loss of blooming for that year. If leaf buds are injured, this will result in delayed growth. However, otherwise healthy plants will develop secondary buds and do fine. This can be a stress for plants. Along with warm temperatures, if conditions remain dry, drought may be and added stress. We cannot do much about temperatures and swelling buds, but we can water plants in the absence of rain. Remind people most plants are not actively growing and so a lot of water is not needed; just enough to moisten soil 6 to 8 inches deep. |
8. BagwormMonitor evergreens; hand pick old bags now; apply controls in JuneCheck evergreens, especially spruce, Juniper and Arborvitae, for overwintering bagworms. As many as 500 to 1000 eggs can overwinter in one female bagworm. Removing and destroying bagworms from now until May 1st can help reduce the bagworm population. Destroy bagworms by crushing or immersing in soapy water. If bags containing eggs are discarded on the ground, eggs may still hatch and larvae return to the tree. It is too early to apply insecticidal products to evergreens for bagworms. Wait until after egg hatch. Products are most effective in reducing damage if applied during the early stages of bagworm development. Insecticides, as well as Bacillus thuringiensis, are best applied from mid-to late- June. They can be applied up until about mid-August, but increased damage will occur the later they are first applied. Bagworm, Nebraska Extension |
9. Pine BlightIdentify disease; apply fungicides at correct time for each diseaseFairly moist weather the last few growing seasons has promoted an increase in pine diseases like Dothistroma needle blight and Sphareopsis tip blight. Now is the time to check pine trees for these two evergreens. If present, timing of fungicide applications is most important. For Dothistroma, the first application is made as needle are emerging, about mid-May, and repeated after new growth has occurred, about mid- to late-June. If the blight is Sphareopsis, the first application is recommended during the 3rd week of April and a second 10 – 14 days later. For identification and fungicides see: |
10. Pruning summer blooming shrubsThinning or renovation pruning can be done nowSummer blooming shrubs can be pruned just before they begin growth in spring. These shrubs develop flower buds during the current growing season, or on new growth, Pruning in spring will not result in the loss of blooming as it would with spring flowering shrubs. Shrub pruning can involve thinning of larger, older stems or complete renovation; pruning the shrub near the ground if it has become overgrown and has a lot of dead stems. It is fine to wait and prune summer blooming shrubs after they bloom in summer as well. |
11. Pruning evergreens - timingSpruce, yew, arborvitae and juniper prune now; wait on pinesPruning evergreens timing. Prune evergreen shrubs, such as juniper and yew, in late March to mid-April before new growth begins. Light pruning may also be done in late June or early July. Prune Japanese Yew, Spruce and Fir between April and August, but only if needed. Prune pines just after they have finished new growth (candling), typically mid-June to mid-July. |